First recorded in Hesiod's Theogony  (c. 700 BC), Pasis  is an ancient Greek name of Rioni, one of the great rivers of the Caucasus with it's source in the glaciers of mountain region of Racha.
Racha is a seldom visited place. However,  it wasn't always so. During the Soviet era there was a well-known resort in Shovi, the place rich with mineral springs and attractive because of it's mild climate.  Geologists explored the rich  deposits of ore in Zophitura valley. Moreover, there were tourist groups (although not as numerous as in Abhazia) who crossed the popular Gebivtsek and Gurjivtsek passes. After collapse of USSR Racha has sunk into oblivion.
Map  from 1718.  Poti of today  was Pasis,  Kutaisi was Cotais and Svans (Soanes) lived on the other side of the  Caucasus Range.  This map clearly shows how  little known Georgia was .

Oni is a village but it's paved lanes with street lamps,  spacious central square with large hotel and a massive building of synagogue might be misleading.  Is it actually a small town? But after a while you realize that it is certainly a village though  large and well planned. 
Synagogue of Oni with Mt. Shoda (3605m)  in the background

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I carried on to the main village of High Racha, Gebi.  Few people know that once it was part of Svaneti and there were numerous towers which unfortunately  didn't survive.
Towers or not, this is a  very attractive place  set amid some truly magnificent mountains...

 Those days in August 2015 were extremely hot and local men (women had a separate spot elsewhere) took a refreshing bath in a small pool dug by bulldhozer in a wide river bed of Rioni, just outside of Gebi. 
I took a deep breath and plunged following others into a freezing mountain water. It was invigorating and made my next hours of walking considerably easier. 

So I decided to camp and to start early in the morning. Pitched my tent next to the  Border Control station which is no more than the simple house they use for sleep and rest. Was presented with loaf of bread and matsoni (Georgian variety of yogurt), invited to come over for "talk". 

Which I did after darkness fell and when there was not much else to do. With single candle and their uninterrupted cigarette smoke the conversation went smoothly from one subject to another. These man were simple and true to themselves.  
My tent  and  Tsihvarga (4180m)   imersed in a blue colour of dusk.  ​

Morning was clear and warm. Soon I was back on the trail which soon, after crossing the wide rocky bed of black slate, brought me to spacious sun-drenched meadows.  
Then it took me further; through the shady carpinus woods, across numerous streams and meadows full of cricket's chirps. The day was hot and to walk on meadows was quite exhausting.
Thank you, tree! Here is much cooler.

At 14:00 after crossing still another creek I entered a wide meadow. To the left, amid tall weeds I could recognize the stone structure of Gezevtsek Refuge. Tried to break through this thick and thorny wall but in vain... Returned back to trail. Supposed to be some way to access it, right? 
Gezevtsek Refuge (right) and pass  (not used anymore) to Lukhuni valley

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So now I was facing a dilemma - should I stay here or  move forward and camp at Sasvano Lakes? It was cool inside and I had no desire to leave it for a blazing sun outside. It is important to mention that the air on the southern slopes of Main Caucasus is typically heavy with flower fragrance and on a hot day this is not  a blessing as you might think...
​ I decided to stay. Unpacked, made things inside more homey and relaxed while reading  a book ("Hadji Murat" by Tolstoy). In couple of hours it became obvious that my decision to stay was completely justified. At first sky turned dim and minutes later some heavy drops heralded the coming rain that started a noisy drum beat on a steel roof of the refuge. If I would go to lakes I would be completely soaked. That's for sure!
​I started to appreciate this refuge even more!
The night was cool and I realized that the weather will be clear and sunny. On the other hand the forecast for coming days wasn't too promising.
Line of ascent from the refuge to Sasvano Lakes

In the morning I decided to leave my backpack at the refuge and go light. Needles to say - I was dripping wet after only few minutes walk in tall grass. Noticed a few exceptionally tall species of Herculaneum, it's name is apt as it grows to some fearsome height of 3-4 metres. 

​Don't ever touch it, especially on sunny day. You won't feel anything at first, but in few days the parts of skin that were in contact with this weed will be badly burned. ..

​ Part 2 will be posted next week



I  drew this map  so you will have better idea of the area

Overgrown and ruined road to Sasvano Lakes

​After crossing Sasvano creek and overgrown meadow the trail turned west and climbed steeply amid the trees. Higher up I noticed  some  traces of an old road. There were white-red marks every 300m or so. 

​Later on upon leaving a tree-line that already faint trail almost disappeared in thick grass. The Refuge and the river came into view (photo above). After a while, on the ridge, it appeared again bringing me to the first and smaller lake. It's waters were muddy and I couldn't not spot any appropriate place for camping. Tall grass was everywhere. ​

Soon I arrived to the second lake. Grass there was thinner and there were plenty of spots for camping. Lechkhumi range was already close and it took me another 30 minutes to get there.

Beautiful sunny day, refreshing wind and magnificent views into Tskheniskhali valley (translated as horse water). Even Ushba was visible in a haze of a distant horizon... 

1. Tetnuld   2. Ushba   3. Dadiashi
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Looking north I was attracted by magnificent West Edena glacier whose three sharp tongues hanged on the rocky face of Geze-Tau (4008m). The main glacier was a typical valley glacier  and it's ice  and snow gave birth to Rioni.

Looking south and above I could see a long ridge leading to the summit of Lukhunistsveri (3216m). This whole landscape reminded me of Scotish Hills. And so up I went. 

​It's east side above Sasvano gorge is not steep, the west side is broken and precipitous
One hump led to another which seemed to be the last one. Not at all!
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In the foreground is the ridge of Lukhunistsveri , in the background are the peaks of the Main Caucasus Range.

After 2,5 hours of ascent I finally reached the flat and wide top of Luhunistveri. The view was sublime.  Tskheniskali and Rioni valleys merged into the distant horizon.
High peaks  of Racha were perfectly visible. Behind them is  Karaugom Plateau which is among the largest in  the Caucasus. 
1. Tsihvarga (4138m)   2. Burdzhula (4357m) 3. Karaugom (4347m) 4. Uilpata (4638m) 5. Double-Peak (4350m) 6. Bubis (4468m) 7. Chanchakhi (4450m) 

East view with  Rioni valley. In the center are those  folded mountains  known mainly because of Udziro Lake, in the right - Mount Shoda (3607m).

Spent almost two hours on the summit and during that time weather started to change. Svaneti horizon turned misty and wind started to blow.
Time to climb down...  

Upper Sasvano Lake

 At 8 PM returned to my "residence" and just in time. Heavy rain started almost immediately and continued all night long. 

Morning was cloudy and rainy. I walked back to Gebi. It was much easier because of cooler weather but fording those side streams was quite unpleasant. On sunny days their surface was hard and consolidated clay which  after rainy night  turned into a deep mud. With heavy backpack it wasn't fun at all...

 River bed of Rioni  unrecognizable  after heavy rains

Came to Shiukachala in 2 hours and was invited by a local man who stay there with his old parents. Cheese, bread, matsoni and Saperavi were put on  table and proved again that hospitality comes naturally to this hardworking people.

And few hours later while I was approaching Gebi this same man shouted  across the river: " Wait near the school building and at 6 the bus will come!" And so it was. 

In Oni, again! Spent the night at the house of Nino and Yuriy. In the evening I was treated by delicious meal at the guesthouse "Gallery". 
And the next day, by late hours of  afternoon I was back in Tbilisi. Hot, crowded and noisy.