Mountain Climbing in Svaneti
Climbing high snow-covered peaks offers an unmatched experience of Svaneti mountains.
You will have it all for yourself because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
Listed below are summits suitable both for beginners and
seasoned mountaineers.
You will have it all for yourself because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
Listed below are summits suitable both for beginners and
seasoned mountaineers.
photo: Traverse along the ridge connecting two peaks of Layla
Easier Climbs (F+) *
are not technically difficult but you must be confident to climb up/down the snow slopes of up to 30 degrees and easy rocks. Rope is always around if belay is required. These climbs are an excellent introduction to mountaineering. People with limited or no experience will be introduced to the basic mountaineering skills and will gain knowledge and understanding of mountain environment. There is no serious exposure on these routes.
* Facile plus (European grade system)
More Difficult Climbs (PD)*
Require previous experience on steeper ground (snow/ice up to 40 degrees), rope management and confidence at exposed sections of narrow ridges. Approach routes are longer and steeper.
* Peau Difficile (European grade system)
are not technically difficult but you must be confident to climb up/down the snow slopes of up to 30 degrees and easy rocks. Rope is always around if belay is required. These climbs are an excellent introduction to mountaineering. People with limited or no experience will be introduced to the basic mountaineering skills and will gain knowledge and understanding of mountain environment. There is no serious exposure on these routes.
* Facile plus (European grade system)
More Difficult Climbs (PD)*
Require previous experience on steeper ground (snow/ice up to 40 degrees), rope management and confidence at exposed sections of narrow ridges. Approach routes are longer and steeper.
* Peau Difficile (European grade system)
Apart from the summits in the following list there are more on which I guide less often:
Elbrus (5642m) , Kazbek (5054m) , Tetnuldi (4858m)
In case my time is already reserved I will refer you to some of the best local guides .
LAYLA (4008m)
Ice-covered Layla is the highest peak of magnificent Svaneti Range and one of the best climbs in the region.
Hundred and fifty years ago this imposing mountain attracted attention from explorers among whom were Gottfried Merzbacher, Douglas Freshfield and the well known photographer Vittorio Sella. Following their path you will enjoy those impressive and far-reaching views which are among the best in the Caucasus.
Hundred and fifty years ago this imposing mountain attracted attention from explorers among whom were Gottfried Merzbacher, Douglas Freshfield and the well known photographer Vittorio Sella. Following their path you will enjoy those impressive and far-reaching views which are among the best in the Caucasus.
photo: Mt.Layla as seen from the meadows above Mestia
Layla is the most accessible of all high peaks in Svaneti. This is not a technical climb yet don't underestimate it.
There are numerous deep crevasses on the glaciers of Layla and in August/September it's slopes turn icy.
For many people this is the first experience of climbing a high mountain and of glacier crossing. I make sure this experience will be safe yet I never promise this will be easy. With enough motivation you will be up to task!
Layla is still very much uncrowded (if compared to similar peaks in the Alps) which only adds to it's attractive qualities.
For information on using horses for base camp approach visit this post
Duration > 3-4 days
Route > roped glacier travel, snow slopes of 30 degrees, short sections of summer ice
Difficulty > (F+)
Time > June to November
There are numerous deep crevasses on the glaciers of Layla and in August/September it's slopes turn icy.
For many people this is the first experience of climbing a high mountain and of glacier crossing. I make sure this experience will be safe yet I never promise this will be easy. With enough motivation you will be up to task!
Layla is still very much uncrowded (if compared to similar peaks in the Alps) which only adds to it's attractive qualities.
For information on using horses for base camp approach visit this post
Duration > 3-4 days
Route > roped glacier travel, snow slopes of 30 degrees, short sections of summer ice
Difficulty > (F+)
Time > June to November
BANGURIANI (3857m)
This prominent mountain is perfectly visible from Mestia yet very rarely climbed.
In their splendor the views from Banguriani match those from a higher and more technical peaks.
Equally memorable is the crossing of an extensive (6 km) glacier which is among the most impressive in Svaneti.
Approach to the base camp with it's blooming meadows and clear streams is a
great prelude for a wintry scenery above!
In their splendor the views from Banguriani match those from a higher and more technical peaks.
Equally memorable is the crossing of an extensive (6 km) glacier which is among the most impressive in Svaneti.
Approach to the base camp with it's blooming meadows and clear streams is a
great prelude for a wintry scenery above!
photo: South-west face of Banguriani
Banguriani is predominantly composed of loose shale buried under snow for the first half of the season. This is the best time for climbing. There are two routes leading to the summit. One, is a straight forward climb of snow gully. The second is a longer route across the glacier.
Duration > 2-3 days
Route > roped glacier travel, easy rocks and snow slopes up to 40 degrees
Difficulty > (PD)
Time > June to July
SHTAVLERI (3993m)
Among the most beautiful summits of the Caucasus, Shtavleri stands away from other peaks.
As such, this ice-covered pyramid of almost perfect proportions commands some stunning panoramic views.
Shtavleri is a great choice for a climbing trip which is more difficult than Layla, yet easier than Tetnuldi .
photo: East and North ridges of Shtavleri
This exciting climb requires stamina and experience. The approach is mostly off-trail and the elevation gain from the valley floor is considerable. And you must be ready to manage on steep and hard snow of early morning and descend it later in the day when it's less stable. The basic mountaineering skills such as using crampons, self-arrest and belay are indispensable.
Duration > 3-4 days
Route > roped glacier travel, snow slopes up to 40 degrees, exposed ridge
Difficulty > (PD)
Time > June to July
Route > roped glacier travel, snow slopes up to 40 degrees, exposed ridge
Difficulty > (PD)
Time > June to July
KAKHIANI (3702m)
This neighbor of Banguriani offers an easier and shorter climb. However the views are equally impressive
and the route is diverse and challenging. It can be done even in one day!
Perfect warm-up for those who are fast and experienced.
photo: West face of peak Kakhiani
Overall this is a very attractive route in particular for a fit person who's time is limited but not the willingness to have some alpine experience. With early start this can be accomplished in one rather long day (2300m of elevation gain). You must have experience moving on unstable talus and snow of 35 degrees.
Duration > 1-2 days
Route > easy rocks and snow slopes up to 35 degrees
Difficulty > (F+)
Time > June to November
Route > easy rocks and snow slopes up to 35 degrees
Difficulty > (F+)
Time > June to November