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  Undiscovered Places of Svaneti. Affordable Hikes and Climbs.
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​Mountain Climbing in Svaneti
​  

Climbing high snow-covered peaks offers an unmatched  experience of Svaneti mountains. 
You will have it all for yourself  because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
Listed below are  summits   suitable both for beginners and

​seasoned mountaineers.
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photo:   Traverse along the ridge connecting two peaks of  Layla
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  Easier Climbs   (F+) *                                                                                                                                                                     
are not technically difficult  but  you must be confident to climb up/down the snow slopes of up to 30 degrees  and easy rocks. Rope is always around if belay is required.  These climbs are   an excellent   introduction  to mountaineering.  People with limited or no experience  will be  introduced  to the   basic mountaineering skills   and will gain knowledge and understanding of mountain environment.     There is no serious exposure on these routes. 
*
Facile plus (European grade system)
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More Difficult Climbs (PD)*
Require  previous experience  on steeper ground (snow/ice up to 40 degrees),  rope management and  confidence at exposed  sections of narrow ridges.    Approach routes are  longer and steeper.
* Peau Difficile (European grade system)



​Apart from the summits   in the  following list ​there are more on which I guide  less often:
 Elbrus (5642m) , Kazbek (5054m) , Tetnuldi (4858m)
In case   my time is already reserved I will refer you to some of the best local guides .




LAYLA (4008m)

 Ice-covered Layla is the highest peak of  magnificent Svaneti Range and one of the best climbs in the region.
​Hundred and fifty years ago  this imposing mountain  attracted  attention from explorers among whom were
Gottfried Merzbacher,   Douglas Freshfield  and  the well known photographer Vittorio Sella.    Following their path you will enjoy those  impressive and far-reaching views which are among the best in the  Caucasus.
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photo:  Mt.Layla   as seen from the meadows above Mestia
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 ​Layla is the most accessible  of all high peaks in Svaneti. This is not a technical climb  yet  don't underestimate it.
There are numerous deep crevasses  on the glaciers of Layla and in August/September it's slopes turn icy. 
For many people this is the first experience of climbing a high mountain and of glacier crossing.   I make sure  this experience  will be safe yet I never promise this will be easy.   With enough motivation you will be up to task!
 Layla is still very much uncrowded (if compared to similar peaks in the Alps) which only adds to it's attractive qualities.
For more information and FAQ   visit this page 

Duration    > 3-4 days
Route  >  roped glacier travel, snow slopes of 30 degrees, short sections of summer ice 
Difficulty >  (F+)  
Time > June  to November

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​BANGURIANI (3857m)

This prominent mountain is perfectly visible from Mestia yet very rarely climbed. 
In their splendor the views from Banguriani match those from  a higher and more technical peaks. 
Equally memorable is the  crossing of an extensive (6 km)  glacier which is among the most impressive in Svaneti.
Approach  to the base camp  with it's  blooming meadows and clear streams is a
​great prelude for a wintry scenery above! 


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photo:  South-west face of Banguriani  

 Banguriani is predominantly composed of loose shale  buried  under snow  for the first half of the season.  This is the best time  for climbing. There are two routes leading to the summit. One, is  a straight forward climb of snow  gully. The second is a longer  route across the glacier.  

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Duration >  2-3 days
Route   >   roped glacier travel, easy rocks and  snow slopes up to 40 degrees

Difficulty > (PD) 
Time > June to July


​SHTAVLERI (3993m)
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Among the most beautiful summits of the Caucasus, Shtavleri  stands  away from other peaks.
As such, this ice-covered pyramid of almost perfect proportions commands some stunning panoramic views.
Shtavleri is a great choice  for   a climbing  trip which is more difficult than Layla, yet easier than Tetnuldi .


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photo:   East and North ridges of Shtavleri
This exciting climb requires stamina and experience. The approach is   mostly off-trail and the elevation gain from the valley floor is considerable. And you  must be ready to manage on steep and  hard snow of early morning and descend it later in the day when it's less stable.   The basic mountaineering skills such as using crampons, self-arrest and belay  are indispensable.
Duration   >   3-4 days
Route   >   roped glacier travel,   snow slopes up to 40 degrees, exposed ridge

Difficulty >   (PD) 
Time    > June to  July


   KAKHIANI   (3702m)
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This neighbor of Banguriani offers an easier  and shorter climb.   However the views are equally impressive
and the route  is  diverse and challenging. It  can be done even in one day!
Perfect warm-up for  those who are fast and experienced.


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photo: West face of peak Kakhiani 
Overall this is a very attractive route in particular for   a fit person who's time is limited  but not the willingness to have some alpine experience. With early start   this can be accomplished in one  rather long day (2300m of elevation gain).  You must have experience moving on unstable talus and snow of 35 degrees.
Duration   >   1-2 days
Route   >    easy rocks and snow slopes up to 35 degrees 

Difficulty >   (F+) 
Time    > June to  November
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