Mountain Climbing in Svaneti
Memorable days on the high peaks offer an unmatched experience of Svaneti mountains.
You will have it all for yourself because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
Listed below are the routes suitable for both beginners and
seasoned mountaineers who prefer to take it easy.
You will have it all for yourself because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
Listed below are the routes suitable for both beginners and
seasoned mountaineers who prefer to take it easy.
Summits guided by SvanAlp are not difficult (F, F+)* but you must be ready to climb on: snow (up to 35 degrees), scree (up to 40 degrees) and summer ice (up to 20 degrees). Rope is always around if belay is required.
- There is no serious exposure on these routes.
- Previous experience in mountaineering is not necessary on some routes (Layla and Banguriani) so any person who is fit and ready to make an effort can be up to task. Sure footage and confidence are absolutely necessary.
- People with limited or no experience will be introduced to the basic mountaineering skills (listed below) and will gain knowledge and understanding of mountain environment.
- Mountaineering and camp gear may be rented from SvanAlp (visit Equipment Rental page)
- Snow climbing, ice axe positioning and arrest techniques.
- Crampon techniques and moving on ice
- Roped glacier travel and route finding through crevassed areas
- Moving on easy rocks and steep scree slopes.
* (F, F+) Facile/Easy (European grade system).
North Layla (3997m) / South Layla (4008m)
Layla is the highest peak of magnificent Svaneti Range and one of the best climbs in the region.
Hundred and fifty years ago this imposing mountain attracted attention of explorers among whom were Gottfried Merzbacher, Douglas Freshfield and the well known photographer Vittorio Sella. They climbed Layla and were excited about it's beauty and magnificent views - among the best in the whole Caucasus .
Hundred and fifty years ago this imposing mountain attracted attention of explorers among whom were Gottfried Merzbacher, Douglas Freshfield and the well known photographer Vittorio Sella. They climbed Layla and were excited about it's beauty and magnificent views - among the best in the whole Caucasus .
Layla is the easiest of all high peaks in Svaneti. This is not a technical climb yet don't underestimate it.
There are wide and deep crevasses on the glaciers of Layla and you have to know the safe
way to avoid or cross them them if necessary. Moreover, the navigation above the Base Camp is not
easy as there are number of alternatives depending on the amount of snow and ice.
Despite it's attractive qualities, Layla is still very much uncrowded
(you may easily spend there number of days without seeing a soul).
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3-4 days
Route > roped glacier travel, snow up to 35 degrees, summer ice up to 20 degrees
Difficulty > climb that requires endurance
There are wide and deep crevasses on the glaciers of Layla and you have to know the safe
way to avoid or cross them them if necessary. Moreover, the navigation above the Base Camp is not
easy as there are number of alternatives depending on the amount of snow and ice.
Despite it's attractive qualities, Layla is still very much uncrowded
(you may easily spend there number of days without seeing a soul).
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3-4 days
Route > roped glacier travel, snow up to 35 degrees, summer ice up to 20 degrees
Difficulty > climb that requires endurance
Watch video (click on photo below)
Banguriani (3816m)
This amazing glacier route will stick in your memory!
The splendid views of Svaneti mountains are to be enjoyed at every stage of this climb.
The splendid views of Svaneti mountains are to be enjoyed at every stage of this climb.
Three-day route to Mt.Banguriani is an incomparable way to experience the high places of Svaneti.
In their splendor the views from Banguriani match the views from surrounding technical peaks.
Equally memorable is the crossing of an extensive (7 km) glacier which is among the most impressive in Svaneti.
Approach to the high camp with it's blooming meadows and clear streams is a great prelude for a wintry scenary above!
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3 days
Route > roped glacier travel, scree and snow slopes up to 35 degrees
Difficulty > requires good fitness
In their splendor the views from Banguriani match the views from surrounding technical peaks.
Equally memorable is the crossing of an extensive (7 km) glacier which is among the most impressive in Svaneti.
Approach to the high camp with it's blooming meadows and clear streams is a great prelude for a wintry scenary above!
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3 days
Route > roped glacier travel, scree and snow slopes up to 35 degrees
Difficulty > requires good fitness
Latrldash (3370m)
Impressive one-day route with panoramic views and diverse terrain.
For fit people this is the best way to spend a day around Mestia.
Mt. Latrldash (3370m) rises almost 2000m above Mestia and is the only summit you can climb in one day.
This is certainly a long day but with enough motivation it can be accomplished.
The views are absolutely stunning in all directions. Note that climbing the final 170 m of the summit ridge requires good balance and confidence.
Time > 9-12 hours
Route > easy rocks with good holds, snow (June), ridge walk
Difficulty > requires good fitness and sure footage on a short section of an exposed ridge
This is certainly a long day but with enough motivation it can be accomplished.
The views are absolutely stunning in all directions. Note that climbing the final 170 m of the summit ridge requires good balance and confidence.
Time > 9-12 hours
Route > easy rocks with good holds, snow (June), ridge walk
Difficulty > requires good fitness and sure footage on a short section of an exposed ridge