Mountain Climbing in Svaneti
Memorable moments on the high peaks of Svaneti.
You will have it all for yourself because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
You will have it all for yourself because there are no crowds, cable cars or busy trails.
Summits guided by SvanAlp are not difficult (F, F+)* but you must be ready to climb on: snow (up to 35 degrees), scree (up to 40 degrees) and summer ice (up to 20 degrees). Rope is always around if belay is required.
- There is no exposure on these routes.
- Previous experience in mountaineering is not necessary on some routes (Layla and Banguriani) so any person who is fit and is ready to make an effort can be up to task. Sure footage and confidence are absolutely necessary.
- People with limited or no experience will be introduced to the essential techniques of mountaineering (listed below) and will gain knowledge and understanding of mountain environment.
- Mountaineering and camp gear may be rented from SvanAlp (visit Equipment Rent page)
- Snow climbing, ice axe positioning and arrest techniques.
- Crampon techniques and moving on ice
- Roped glacier travel and route finding through crevassed areas
- Moving on easy rocks and steep scree slopes.
* (F, F+) Facile/Easy (European grade system).
Peak Komsomolets (3702m)
Easy and short access, magnificent views from the top and climbing which is interesting without being risky.
Requires some experience and good fitness.
Requires some experience and good fitness.
Peak Komsomolets (3702m) is the second highest mountain of Gvalda Range rising high above Mestia and is visible from every street in town. It's position outside of the Main Range and above the valleys of Svaneti makes it a great panoramic spot while proximity to Mestia offers a relatively short approach.
Time > 3 days
Elevation > 3702m
Route > snow slopes up to 30-35 degrees (June/mid July), easy rocks, boulder fields
Difficulty > requires some experience climbing and descending snow and scree
Time > 3 days
Elevation > 3702m
Route > snow slopes up to 30-35 degrees (June/mid July), easy rocks, boulder fields
Difficulty > requires some experience climbing and descending snow and scree
North Layla (3997m)
Layla is the highest peak of splendid Svaneti Range that separates Lower and Upper Svaneti.
Hundred and fifty years ago this imposing mountain attracted much attention of explorers among whom were Gottfried Merzbacher, Douglas Freshfield and the well known photographer Vittorio Sella. They climbed Layla and were excited about it's beauty and magnificent views considered to be among the best in the whole Caucasus .
Hundred and fifty years ago this imposing mountain attracted much attention of explorers among whom were Gottfried Merzbacher, Douglas Freshfield and the well known photographer Vittorio Sella. They climbed Layla and were excited about it's beauty and magnificent views considered to be among the best in the whole Caucasus .
Layla is the easiest of all high peaks in Svaneti. This is not a technical climb yet don't underestimate it.
There are wide and deep crevasses on the glaciers of Layla and you have to know the safe
way to avoid or cross them them if necessary. Moreover, the navigation above the Base Camp is not
easy as there are number of alternatives depending on the amount of snow and ice.
This is a classical climb of Svaneti and is still very much uncrowded
(you may easily spend there number of days without seeing a soul).
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3-4 days
Elevation > 3997m
Route > roped glacier travel, snow up to 35 degrees, summer ice up to 20 degrees
Difficulty > climb that requires endurance
There are wide and deep crevasses on the glaciers of Layla and you have to know the safe
way to avoid or cross them them if necessary. Moreover, the navigation above the Base Camp is not
easy as there are number of alternatives depending on the amount of snow and ice.
This is a classical climb of Svaneti and is still very much uncrowded
(you may easily spend there number of days without seeing a soul).
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3-4 days
Elevation > 3997m
Route > roped glacier travel, snow up to 35 degrees, summer ice up to 20 degrees
Difficulty > climb that requires endurance
Watch video (click on photo below)
Banguriani (3800m)
This amazing glacier route provides some unforgettable moments.
The splendid views of Svaneti mountains are to be enjoyed at every stage of this climb.
The splendid views of Svaneti mountains are to be enjoyed at every stage of this climb.
Three-day route to Mt.Banguriani is an incomparable way to experience the high places of Svaneti.
In their splendor the views from Banguriani are equal to views from higher and technical peaks.
Equally memorable is the crossing of an extensive (7 km) glacier which is among the most beautiful in Svaneti.
Approach to the high camp with it's blooming meadows and clear streams is no less impressive.
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3 days
Elevation > 3800m
Route > roped glacier travel, scree and snow slopes up to 30 degrees
Difficulty > requires good fitness
In their splendor the views from Banguriani are equal to views from higher and technical peaks.
Equally memorable is the crossing of an extensive (7 km) glacier which is among the most beautiful in Svaneti.
Approach to the high camp with it's blooming meadows and clear streams is no less impressive.
Excellent introduction to glacier travel.
Time > 3 days
Elevation > 3800m
Route > roped glacier travel, scree and snow slopes up to 30 degrees
Difficulty > requires good fitness
Latraldash (3370m)
Impressive one-day route with panoramic views and diverse terrain.
For fit people this is the best way to spend a day around Mestia.
Mt. Latraldash (3370m) rises almost 2000m above Mestia and is the only summit you can climb in one day.
This is certainly a long day but with enough motivation it can be accomplished.
The views are absolutely stunning in all directions. Note that climbing the final 170 m of the summit ridge requires good balance and confidence.
Time > 9-12 hours
Elevation > 3370m
Route > easy rocks with good holds, snow (June), ridge walk
Difficulty > requires good fitness and sure footage on short section of exposed rocks
This is certainly a long day but with enough motivation it can be accomplished.
The views are absolutely stunning in all directions. Note that climbing the final 170 m of the summit ridge requires good balance and confidence.
Time > 9-12 hours
Elevation > 3370m
Route > easy rocks with good holds, snow (June), ridge walk
Difficulty > requires good fitness and sure footage on short section of exposed rocks