MY MAP OF SVANETI (Zemo or Upper Svaneti) gives the basic idea of "where is what" in the region and is totally DIFFERENT FROM ALL OTHER MAPS. Those maps are more detailed but it takes time and effort to read them.
Note that my map is not for navigation . But it perfectly serves it's purpose for fundamental understanding of the area.
click on image for original size. for individual use only. not for sale.
Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going.
The "problem" of most tourists is that they don't have enough time, both for research and traveling. And information is scarce.
So this is one of my goals - to inspire interest and to introduce Svaneti not just as another picturesque destination but something you become familiar with even before your visit. Not just jumble of unfamiliar peaks and valleys but distinct places with their names and history.
For most people the road from Zugdidi to Mestia is hardly more than 3-4 hours spent on a bumpy road of 136 km while being drowsy after an early wake up call in the train from Tbilisi (or shared taxi from Kutaisi). Very few consider it part of their travel; for majority the important thing is to get to Mestia where things are more exciting. True, not all seats in marshrutka are good for seeing what's there outside (to get your window seats arrive earlier) but with some determination you may succeed.
So here is the famous Inguri Road (which I believe is more interesting than Georgian Military Road to Kazbegi) illustaretd with 10 photographs of different places along it. All of them are easily recognizable.
Svaneti is as beautiful as the road which brings you there!
1. Zugdidi is 30 minutes away and after crossing Magana river (flows from Tobavarchkhili Lakes) the road enters higher places and starts to climb up leaving the coastal plane far behind. Across the valley you can spot Egrissi Range (photo 1) with it's saw-like ridges and before July is still covered with snow. No other range is as close to the Black Sea as Egrissi which despite it's very modest heights (up to 3300m) carries some small glaciers.
2. Inguri Dam and reservoir (photo 2)are perhaps the most known attractions of the road. On the web you can easily find facts about this huge constuction. The reservoir is quite beautiful in particular when water is color of turquoise.
3. After Khaishi (the first sizable village of Svaneti) the road crosses bridge to the right bank. Here is a confluence with mighty Nenskra - the valley on the western border of Svaneti and Kodori Range above it creating a high barrier separating it from Abkhazia. From this point the valley turns into a narrow gorge (photo 3) with roaring Inguri just below the wheels. This part of the road is the most thrilling.
4. Nakra valley marks the midpoint of the road. Clear water of Nakra is unlike grey streams of Inguri. Nakra village is relatively new, only in 1930-th svans started to move to this once totally uninhabited and wild valley. Donguz-Orun Pass (3250m) in it's upper reaches is the easiest link to Northern Caucasus and brings you after a long day's walk straight to the foot of Mt. Elbrus (the highest mountain in Europe).
5. Road steadily climbs up leaving the river far below. From now on the distant views are not hidden anymore. Long switchbacks take you even higher. From above, when looking west you see Mt.Shtavleri (3993m) a massive pyramid in the range separating Nakra and Nenskra valleys. On your right hand side still closer are Bakildi Ridge (part of Svaneti Range) and numerous attractive looking villages 2000m below. Beyond it is Lower Svaneti, beautiful region but loosing in comparison with it's northern neighbor - Upper (or Zemo) Svaneti of high peaks and glaciers.
6. On 110 km the road is still high above Inguri and Mt.Layla though modestly comes into view. Below are four villages of Tskhumari community known for it's excellent harvests of walnuts.
7. If the day is not overcast and your seat is on the left side (stretch your neck of not) you will have an absolutely grand view of Mt.Ushba (it's South summit), Guli glacier and Guli pass.
8. Road makes a large half loop and passing by Tskhumari road sign turns east. High snow peaks (5000m high or alsmost so) appear on the horizon while closer is the beautiful valley with steep slopes above the river. Excilarating view... Latali community is getting closer.
9. A bit later turn your head to the right and you will be greeted by Laylachala - the valley of 8 glaciers!
10. After leaving Latali, Mestia is not far, only 9 km away. Now, when Inguri is behind a wooded Zagar Range we are in the valley of Mulkhura. Lendjeri community with it's many towers is easily recognizable while Gvalda Range dominates the view with it's highest mountain - Banguriani (3857m).
Welcome to Mestia!